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Old 03-19-2023, 09:28 PM
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Grom
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 588
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
The lighter than stock of that wood looks nice .

I don't like the wood finish my own self, part of my 240D's dashboard has been replaced with the black plastic ones from graymarket cars that I no longer see in the junkyards .

I guess I shoulda saved those black dash trims, I may well replace the entire dashboard before too long .

Yes, disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall hot water valve (7MM nut driver IIRC) and *gently* flush and back flush the matrix .

If it flows water easily and comes out clear with no rust colors STOP and look for something else .

The FSM has details on how to properly hook up the bowden cables that control the valve, mine were mis connected and one had a 40 degree kink in it .

What I do is : close the hot water valves (there's TWO) and then I connect the bowden cables so when in the 'off' position there's a tiny bit of pressure holding the valves in their closed position .

I live in the Desert and when I don't want heat (most of the time) I really don't want heat .

The two horizontal sliders also have a MASSIVE effect on how much heat you get in the foot wells Vs. out the dash vents .

Take the time to adjust them and you'll be well rewarded and the defroster will work better too .
Thank you Nate. I'll admit, I don't really know which hose is which on this valve. I understand the hose coming off the head is the hot side, but I don't know which of the 3 hoses coming off the valve I need to flush. Could you elaborate? I know this valve must be so simple, but I haven't wrapped my head around it's operation.
Also, I'm headed to the yard soon for parts for this car, if I find those black (leather?) trim pieces I'll send them to you! Haven't seen them in a long time.
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