JH,
Just got mine back from the machine shop today (Friday).

Here is the itemized bill:

valve job w/cam.....125.00
pressure check........35.00
mill........................37.50
install guides...........72.00
rmv broken bracket.....n/c

This came back with the lifters/cam installed and the lifters bled.
The guy who actually did the work had already gone for the day, but a couple of other guys at the shop said the valve guides were shot.

You do need a 12mm double square socket to remove the head bolts. I ordered mine from Snap-On, but someone posted that Autozone has them. (save you about $15)

Sixto is right about removing the oil from inside the bolt heads. Put a plastic straw in a can of carb cleaner, and shoot some in the bolt heads. It will dilute some of the built-up crud and make soaking up the surplus oil easier.
I did get a 24" breaker bar from Autozone, and it made removal a breeze. Hope it does the same on double 90 angle torques.

I got the guide pin out with a 2" 6mm bolt, a washer, and a socket (smaller, maybe 10mm)
If you have any difficulty getting the rotor bracket out, cut it off before you crunch the orange plastic disc behind it. Bracket is about $23. orange disk is $60.
The guy at the machine shop did tell me several times I was not the first person to bring one in with the rotor bracket broken. And he took the broken one off at no charge.

If any exhaust manifold studs come off with the nuts, put them back on the head. The machine shop will clean them nicely. If you leave them on the shop floor, you will have to get the nuts off, try to remove the rust, and then reinstall.

I got 316 stainless nuts for reinstallation, and wanted matching studs, but I did not plan ahead, and at 4:30 on Firday, this was not happening. As a point of reference, the guy at Capitol City Bolt 'n Screw ID's the nuts as silicone bronze. He did not have any of that material, though, which explains the stainless.

I took SteveB's advise to heart, and got a gasket set from MB. Even though I already had an intake gasket.
It includes such things as the o-ring for the heater pipe from the water pump.
I also got new head bolts. You might take one out and measure to see if it is less than (I think) 108mm. If so, you should be able to reuse yours.

Any timing rail or guide replacement will require removal of the lower timing cover, which will probably add close to another day of work. Since I got the head off without breaking anything, I am leaving the guides alone. The sprocket looks fine, and the chain did not show any signs of wear on the links I can see.

I am using locktite 5900 for all resealing on the timing cover.
I also am taking a clean engine compartment opportunity to replace the water pump, all the hoses, belt tensioner, belt, motor mount bracket (mount seems ok at around 30mm height) and clean all the ground points.

Sharpie now makes a silver ink permananent marker, which is great for marking the cam sprocket and chain links after they have turned dark from oil.

I left the intake on because 1) there were only two bolts to remove from underneath, and 2) I need to replace the motor mount bracket, water pump, and belt tensioner, all of which is easier with the intake out of the way. I think the ease of leaving the intake in the car depends on how far you get the car off the ground.