Toe in is too low (both tires point toward the center of the car). Makes for wihte-knuckle steering, may be there to compensate for wobbly ball joints. Car will be VERY sensitive to cross winds and won't respond well to steering input. Tires pointing out will cause the same, but "oversensitive" steering rather than slow.

If the ball joint boots are torn, they need to be replaced, they will go bad if they aren't already.

The track rod bushings will knock or groan (or both) going over bumps like speed bumps if they are worn enough to cause wander.

You need to check the entire steering mechanism before deciding what to do, and in what order.

Steering box -- must have very little play, can be adjusted per Jim's instruction. Note following before adjusting.

Steering coupler. This goes between the steering column and box, has two rubber bushings on steel pins. When the bushings go, the steering wheel gets " loose" from the sloppy connection to the box. Will cause the wheel to rattle and snap on rough surfaces.

Idler arm bushings. You should have no more than barely perceptible vertical movement of the idler arm. Any more and you need new bushings.

Drag link ends -- no play, if you feel or see any, replace drag link.

Tie rod ends. Ditto, replace if boots are bad, too. Much easier to replace the whole thing with both ends than to get a rusted end off, and the alignment shop will thank you.

Ball joints, upper and lower. No side-to side play, lower joint can have a couple mm vertical play. Jack wheel off the ground and pry tire straight up to test.

Wheel bearings. Should have about 0.001" free play cold. If loose, adjust, then re-check in a couple thousand miles. If loose again, replace.

Upper control arm (sway bar) mounts -- if they are worn, the caster changes with load, makes the car steer funny.

Have fun!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!