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Old 03-06-2025, 04:04 PM
Todd Miller's Avatar
Todd Miller Todd Miller is online now
1966 250SE Coupe Owner
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 583
The rule of solid diagnostics is to never assume anything. All systems that could be related to the problem being investigated, have to prove themselves to be functioning correctly, hence my statement of: Find out what you're losing. Don't assume, "...it feels like electrical, because no sputtering." Prove it.

Same goes for recent work. It all means nothing, because everything needs to prove itself to be functioning at the time of failure. What can't prove itself, is the failure.

My background as a tech is driveability issues and diagnostics. I can't tell you how many times a customer has said, "I've already replaced all that." "I've already rebuilt/repaired that/those." "My mechanic already checked that." "My mechanic already repaired/rebuilt that." None of that matters to me. Just tell me what the complaint is, and that's all I need to hear. I'm not going to avoid looking at a fuel filter because someone says it's been replaced, and then spend half a day chasing my tail, just to discover that a $5 fuel filter is actually the problem. I also see a lot of replica/wiz-bang parts being installed, and again, the claim is, "I already replaced those. They aren't what's wrong with it." Then I open the hood and find pretend spark plug wires, junk Bosch platinum spark plugs(or worse), carbon core coil wires, replica distributor caps and rotors that don't mate properly or have failed resistors, or the springs behind the carbon buttons... and the list goes on and on. Step 1: Remove all the junk replica parts and return the car to how it was built. If that doesn't solve the issue, dive deeper into the diagnostics.
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1966 W111 250SEC:
DB268 Blaugrün/electric sunroof/4 on-the-floor/4.5 V-8 rear axle
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