You cant exactly do it there ... but if you want to try, you will need:

17mm wrench
1 1/16" (27mm) long Socket and Socket Wrench
Phillips Screw Driver
4 Shop Rags
Diesel Compression Tester with proper injector fitting.
Jumper Cables

Take the car for a test drive and get it nice and hot. You will want to test the compression while hot, as it is a better indication of the running condition of the vehicle than a cold test.

Unscrew the clamp for the clear, in-line fuel filter leading to the IP. This will cut the fuel source to the motor to prevent it from starting during the turn-over process.

Use the 17mm wrench to unscrew the hard fuel lines leading from the injection pump to the fuel injectors. Disconnect all four from the injectors, and loosen them at the injection pump. Slide the lines from directly over the injectors, so you can remove them.

Remove all four injectors using the long socket. Stuff the rags into each injector hole to prevent debris from getting into the pre-chambers.

Attach jumpers to the tested car from a running vehicle. This will keep the car charged during the many starter turnovers you will need to gather enough data.

Now simply screw the compression tester adaptor (specific to each injector ... verify you have the correct adaptor size.) into one of the injector holes. Attach the compression tester (which is just a hose and guage) to the adaptor. Turn the motor over 7 - 12 times. Take a reading, release pressure, and try again. Take a couple readings from each cylinder. You should be right around 315psi for each cylinder, with no more than 10-12% between the four.

Note on diesel compression testers: Conisdering diesels operate at a considerably higher compression ratio than gas motors, a diesel compression tester is accurate to a much higher PSI, usually 1000. Also, diesel fuel injectors vary in size from spark plugs, so a special adaptor must be used. Moral: A diesel compression tester is very different from a gasoline compression tester.

Good luck, Cassidy