Details, I love details too.

Here are the steps I took to adjust for 5* chain stretch:

1: remove all 5 injection lines.
2: use a flatblade screwdriver and a small hammer to score a mark across the IP/block for reference.
3: use 13mm socket or wrench and loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP to the block.
4: CAREFULLY pushed the IP twards the block about 2mm at the mark.
5: Recheck the distince changed on the IP and tighten the 3 bolts.
6: Attach the IP lines (Had to bend them a little, they wern't ment to be moved this far from normal TDC.)
7: Crank the engine at 1/4 throttle until it starts.
8: Double check all connections and bolts.

It has much more of a true diesel sound and I can almost make out each cylinder as it fires at idle. Better power, I can use less throttle to maintain the same speed as before. I can also make FULL boost (12.5PSI) at 2000RPM now, before it would only make 9PSI at 2000RPM. It runs somewhat smoother, but that may also be from the valvelash job I did yesterday.

If anyone wants even more details, don't be afraid to ask like R Leo did or toss me an e-mail.

As I said, if you do the cam adjustment I STRONGLY suggest you do this also. Be sure to document that you have done this so you won't have problems in the future if you do other work or sell your car.

I must say, if you have access to or can get one, use the proper start of delivery tool that MB sells. This is just a cheap quick fix.