Heated up the second one and pounded it out this morning and reassembled the suspension. What a difference!! Here is some extra info for anyone reading this in preparation for doing their own:

Tools

• -Tools required - Metric sockets to 22mm, 6mm allen for shield cap screws and axle nut, ball joint press, BFH, drift, two jackstands, torque wrench
  -Tools that make it easier: Oxy-Acet Torch/WD40 (spray the edge when hot), hydraulic jack, large 15" adj. wrench for axle nut, mounted bench vise, long breaker bar

General Procedure/Observations

• - I did one side at a time, supporting with a jackstand under the control arm bushing and raising with factory jack.
  - Next step is to remove wheel, then caliper (hang with wire), then hub (catch front bearing), then shield, then steering attachment (hang along with caliper)
  - Now you're looking at the spindle
  - If you use a hyraulic jack under the lower control arm, right under the coil spring, many things go easier as you can infinitely control the height. Regardless of what you choose, lower control arm has to be supported and secured at this time. I used a jack and you should too. Triple check the security of your support.
  - With arm supported, loosen nut to upper control arm until flush with stud end. I then put a second jack stand directly under the spindle as safety and lowered the hyd. jack abnout 1/2in. or so.
  - Strike the upper balljoint nut with a hammer and it will pop loose. Take it off.
  - Lower the lower control arm a little more until the threads of the upper balljoint stud are not visible. Push straight in on the top part of the spindle, which will point the the upper balljoint stud towards the center of the car. Top of spindle should now be free.
  - Rotate the spindle out of the way and remove lower ball joint nut entirely (do not leave to beat on - threads on old balljoint are unimportant and any damage to nut will cause hell on reassembly - trust me)
  - Beat lower ball joint stud with BFH. Spindle will fall off.
  - Drive out old balljoint. I had to use a torch, you might get lucky, but be prepared if you only have one vehicle. Propane will not cut it. If you use a torch, be aware that it is likely the ball and stud will explode from the unit. I'm not sure how far they go or how fast as mine shot into a bucket, but it was loud. Take safety precautions in light of this. One of mine did, one didn't.
  - Press new ball joint into cool spindle. I did not rent the tool from PP (I could not justify renting and waiting and returning PP's press to save the 45 seconds or so), but instead went and- picked up a free press at PepBoys (deposit required), it was Performance Tech's Balljoint and U-Joint Service Set, Item #W89304. I did have to remove the boots from the new balljoint (10 seconds, needle nose pliers and it kinfof unscrews over boot, grease from joint transefered back into boot with finger). Then I clamped the press in a vise, set it up with nothing on the top of the press as it is the same diameter as the inside shoulder on the balljoint, a ring and its holder on the bottom of the press and screw it in. Big breaker bar and the vise help a lot here - much torque required.
  - Put boot back on, "screw" on lower retainer(30seconds)
  - Reassemble in reverse, observing torque settings and wheel bearing preload procedures.

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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD
1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick