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If you've got the tensioner and adjusting rod and collar mounted properly, there's almost no way it can not move the adjuster pulley towards tensioning the belt. The tensioner mechanism itself consists of an inner and outer housing with a rubber tensioning medium in between.
The rubber can take a set after years of use because of heat and constant tension to the point that it will not rebound much, if at all, when you loosen the adjusting rod. If that's the case, the only fix is a new belt tensioner. With the tensioner center bolt loosened 1/4 - 1/2 turn, see if you can rotate the tensioner around the center bolt by loosening the adj. rod nut, grabbing the tensioner puller and pushing or pulling it in either direction. You should feel resistance from the shock, but you should also see the adjusting rod move up and down. If not, remove the tensioner and adjusting rod assembly and make sure they're both in good shape.
The adjusting rod and collar can go on in one of two directions. The proper way is with the adjusting rod/collar pivot oriented to your left (9 o'clock) when facing the engine from in front of the car.
Also, make absolutely sure that you're installing the belt in the right configuration (see pic below). If you're using a new belt, make certain that it's the same length as the one you took off. The belt length may be marked on the outside of the belt in millimeters. Depending on tensioner type, tensioner pulley size and accessories, belts can vary in length, and it's possible you may have been sold the wrong one.
Hope this helps
Gary
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