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Old 10-26-2003, 10:18 PM
Q Q is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
I found Thomaspin's web site very helpful in eliminating any fear in replacing the bushings. The inner 6 mm hex bolts are kind of a pain to get out. I found the best way to get them out and in was with an allen wrench from underneath. Plenty of room, but you are working blind. The only other issue was lining the mounts up with the flanges on the engine. Just takes a bit of muscle and a carefully placed pry bar to get it lined up.

In Thomaspin's pictoral, he shows where to disconnect the throttle linkage. I found a better place was the ball joint against the firewall. A 7 mm open end wrench fit right between the socket and arm and allowed for a gentle pop of the joint. I was able to pop it back together with finger pressure too.

The difference in my approach versus his was he was smarter. I left the air box in place and my already cracked snorkle gave up the ghost! I made sure to unclip the fan shroud prior to jacking the engine up. Prior to lowering the engine, I fully extended the engine shocks and got the shaft into the hole so as not to wreck them.

The difference in the new mounts is utterly amazing. The engine is quieter and the shifts are smoother. The feeling is much more refined. You don't know what you are missing until you replace them. For those of you who have been putting it off, DON'T! It is definetly a DIY.

Tools required:
6 mm hex socket
6 mm allen wrench
8 mm hex socket
swivel (u-joint) socket
Locktite
7 mm open end wrench (to hold engine shock shaft)
10 mm socket (for engine shock nuts)
vise-grips (to gently hold shocks while you tighten nuts from above)
12" socket extension (for reaching 8 mm bolts through chasis)
20" socket extension (not necessary, but made life SO EASY)
floor jack with wooden block
jack stands
Attached Thumbnails
W126 Engine mounts, old vs. new picture-img_1166_edited.jpg  
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