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As I recall, as an anti-theft function, the faceplate is portable can be removed from the headunit directly.
After you remove the faceplate, you can easily disassemble it with a small Torx screwdriver, you will find numerous tiny bulbs soldered directly onto the circuit board, I got the similar sized 12V replacement bulbs from Radio shack.
If you are comfortable with solder iron, it's a rather easy job to replace them.
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99 BMW 540i 6-speed 110K Km
03 SAAB 9-5 wagon 80K Km
92 400E (Sold) 245K km
Still missing the days with the Benz, it kept me busy.
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