Tim:

You MUST have a special crowfoot to adjust the valves -- adjuster is an interference thread "post" on the opposite side of the cam from the valves. Not absolutely necessary to replace valve seals, but nice. DO NOT use a standard crowfoot, as there is a radius on the edge of the working part, and the nut is very thin on the adjuster -- a standard crowfoot will almost always round off the nut. It is supposed to be fairly hard to turn.

You can make one if you need by grinding the bottom side flat, but the 'special' one isn't very expensive.

To replace valve seals you will need compressed air and a spark plug adapter to hold the valves closed and a valve spring compressor. Force the rocker arms off the adjuster stud and remove them from one cylinder. Apply compressed air to that cylinder through the spark plug hole, then remove the valve spring and pull the old seals off. Use the little plastic cover over the valve stem when installing new seals so the retainer slot won't cut them.

Re-install springs and retainer before venting the air pressure or the valve will fall into the cylinder! Replace rocker arms in original position.

Also, get a complete set of the plastic clips that hold the cam oiler tube on and replace them when you are finished with the seals, you will break the old ones (very brittle) when you bump the oiler tube.

The only Chilton's manual for this car available today (if it still is!) is almost useless. Get the CD manual on this site, or go to eBay for a factory manual.

Start engine with valve cover off and VERIFY that you have oil delivery out of the oiler tube BEFORE driving the car, or you will be getting a new cam or two if the oiler leaks!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!