280se-man

not sure what effects it has but your original coil type is for external resistors. did you get that type of coil? if you didn't then you have twice the resistance than you should.

what i was talking about previous was any and i mean any primary wire that has anything to do with engine starting having signs of corroding insulation falling off should be replaced. testing just a primary wire tells nothing because you don't have any scales to measure resistance by. but... take several wires and connections adding the sum of their resistance can lead to a weak ignition.

Now the ignition switching box. you said you grounded out the hi voltage coil wire and had no spark. is that also true if you pull a plug leaving the plug wire on and then grounding the plug. spark??? no spark would mean your switch Ignition control unit may not be doing the job. but before going there re-evaluate your primary side and the new coil and the procedure used on the coil's secondary wire going to the dist. did you let it arc or jump the gap. obviously if you got a spark on that test go to a plug wire thru a plug and see if there is any spark. the rotor has a 5k ohm resistor imbedded so you really need a good primary and secondary system.

if you have done all the above and feel that the ignition componets are operating ok then you got to look at the ICU box. but that is like 500 bucks. i'd be sure it wasn't something simple first.

post back so we can see how you progress
tks
craig

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Thanks Much!
Craig

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