I will include a series of pictures, in order, of the repair. Some are not too bright, needed three hands!!
DO NOT USE FORCE on any of these procedures!
1. Pop off the plastic cover at the base of the mirror. Gently pry and it will pop off.
2. I removed the light and control panel, but this is not necessary. See thread above for process.
3. Remove one Philips screw.
4. You will see two layers of POP-Aluminum, one lighter than the other (in my case). Pry between them with a screwdriver. It may take a good tweak, but the mirror is snapped into place with a spring loaded ball like connector. Good thing I waited to undo the wiring harness! It stopped the mirror assembly from hitting the console!
5. Disconnect the wiring connector(s) and feed the harness through the opening in the mounting.
6. Bench time.
7. Gently pop apart the mirror clam shell. I did not use any tools, just my finger nails. The bottom seems to pop open the easiest.
8. Several parts start to fall out, the broken plastic clips (you will see them in one pic), the flat spring tabs and the remote control.
9. Gently remove the ball joint from the mirror backing. It slides right out with the black plastic mounting board.
10. Unplug the auto dimming wiring plug and set aside the mounting and garage opener.
11. Gently remove the mirror glass from back plastic clam shell and set aside.
12. Locate the two broken tabs (or where they were). Ken has a good picture of this.
13. Option One: Drill two small holes, one on either side of the reinforcing plastic ribs where the tabs once were.
14. Thread either a small wire or tie-wrap thru the holes from the inside –out and back in. I may re-do this option, but then again...
15. Loop the wire or tie-wrap on the inside. Do not tighten all the way.
16. Option two: Drill one small hole in the middle of the two reinforcing ribs and screw in a small (I mean small) sheet metal screw.
17. Replace the mirror glass in front clam shell.
18. Replace the mirror mounting bracket.
19. Place the two spring tabs (flat thingies) in your loops first and tighten wire or tie-wrap so the top of the spring tab is just below the outer edge of the clam shell. Look at other end and match height. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You want the spring tab to have some movement so it doesn’t slip out of the other end.
20. Gently push the spring tab under the non-broken plastic tab on the shell. You can gently spread the shell to accomplish this. The spring tab will snap in place. Make sure it is evenly centered in the plastic tab.
21. Now, if the ball joint feels too tight, move it around, clean off the ball and wipe (use a Q-Tip) sparingly with Silicone, do not spray! Wipe clean again, all over the ball. You want some resistance.
22. Replace the wiring connector(s).
23. On the rear clam shell, replace the rubber door opener buttons and the little clear led lens. Note there is a flat side (see pic).
24. Replace garage opener in outer shell and route wire appropriately.
25. Gently snap the two halves together, top first, then bottom. It should snap together easily. Do not force.
26.Place mounting spring (with the two little balls on either side) into the rectangle slot in the stationary mounting bracket mounted to the roof. Place one ball into the slot and use your thumbs to snap in the other side – POP, it snaps in.
27. Replace Philips screw.
28. Connect connector(s).
29. Replace plastic cover.
30. BINGO, you just saved $1K!
The first set of pictures will be in this note, and the remainding in the next reply.
Thanks to Ken and all those who made this possible!
Just for kicks, I think I will go see if MBZ parts counter can order the front 1/2 of the shell! LOL!
BOBB