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Originally posted by gsxr
Well, since you asked! :p
1- I'd flush with citric acid and a forced-open t-stat per the MB factory procedure. Bad you for not flushing when you bought the car! Bad, bad!
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Yes, I know I was bad for not doing it beforehand...
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2- Given the short time allowed, I'd at least use a McParts cooling system flush if you can't locate citric acid powder on short notice before your trip.
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I don't knwo where the citric acid can be gotten. I've tried two different dealers, and both of them gave me a blank stare when I asked them for it. I'm probably gonna have to live with a McParts flush stuff.
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3- If the t-stat is not recent, replace it. DO NOT use an aftermarket no-name 'stat from McParts. Use OE/OEM Behr or Wahler. Trust me.
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You don't have to tell me twice; there are problems with aftermarket thermostats for the Ford diesels as well...so I'm actually familiar with cheap t'stats not working. Where can I get an OEM one besides the dealer and Fastlane? I don't think that Fastlane could get it here quickly enough (short of paying out the nose for shipping), and I'm guessing that the dealer will want an arm, a leg, and my first-born...
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4- If the temp still is low, try the heater. If the heater blows nice & hot, the 'stat is probably FINE. In that case, you need a new temp sender in the head for $10.
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I need to try it again (the car may not have had a real chance to warm up last time I used the heater), but I don't think the heater's putting out as much heat now as it has in the past. In addition, this is sudden; a week ago, the gauge was reading perfectly. I know a sending unit can fail that quickly, but the odds are in favor of the t'stat...especially since I don't know its age.
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5- Use the amber/gold colored Mercedes, or Zerex G-05, anti-freeze only. No green or bright orange junk!
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Where can this be acquired, besides the dealer? Again, I don't think I want to know what the dealer charges for it...
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6- I assume you know not to stick a cold garden hose into a warm engine when flushing. Let it cool first - shut off engine, leave heater on MAX with fan on high, and the key turned on. The electric aux pump will push coolant through the heater core and cool things down in 10-20 minutes quite nicely.
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Sounds good...I presume that I should leave the heater set the same way while going through the flush, in order to ensure tha thte heater core gets flushed out as well...
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7- I'm concerned about the coolant loss. If you can't find ANY external leaks anywhere, I'm afraid it may be a head gasket...? 
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I'm concerned about the same thing, although I'm still hoping for the heater core...especially given how humid it gets in the cab (it'll make your skin clammy, even on a dry day) whenever the ACC's set to "EC". Even still...times like this, I'm really happy for the iron-head 617...if it is a head gasket, the head should still be in good shape *knock on wood*