Thanks Peter. The head is off the car so I thought I might try to rig up a low pressure air connection to the manifold side of the motor. Then use a soap solution to look for bubbling. I think some amount is to be expected but a pass-thru leak without holding any pressure is probably not good. I wonder if I could use my MityVac and pull a low vacuum on the cylinder side? could be a problem getting a good seal on the head though.
Greg,
I was going to replace all 8 or the rotators until I pulled mine out and find them all seeming to work fine. I noted that in a post that I researched someone said something about them clicking ("so they do not rotate too much")but there are only one or two of my rotators that don't "click" but feel kind of like there is a bad ball in a bearing (if you know what I mean)... The rest are pretty smooth.
at 10.00 a pop I'm inclined to leave the old ones.
Interestingly I found one cap nut on an exhaust valve that had a groove driven into it as if the cam has been hitting this one in the same place for soem time. When I pulled the valve I could see why. The stem seal was leaking and the valve had so much sh__ built up on it that I doubt it could rotate! There were a couple of exhaust valves taht had this buildup. Interestingly none of the intakes but perhaps that is because the oil that leaks past the seal just gets sucked intot he cylinder and that the valve itself is probably not as hot since it is sucking air in rather than expelling burnt gases.
You will be happy to know that all my Prechambers are fine though!!!...
One parting question. My local indy suggests replacing the chain tensioner since it is original. This part is pretty spendy. Is there a consensus on whether or not to change this part "just because"? I am leaning towards using the old one and then checking it after all is back together. that's one part you can actually replace after everything is back together without too much of a headache.
Once again this forum proves it is the best!