You must beg, borrow, or steal a splined socked for the pressure valve holders.

I'd do this on a hot engine, for the simple reason that it will start much easier. You must remove the injection lines, so they will be dry when you first attempt to start.

Get all new plastic injection line clips, they will snap when you attempt to remove them, and the lines will fracture if not clipped down.

The lock rings for the pressure valve holders need to go back the way they were originally, and the screw is likely stuck. Use AntiSieze on them. Loosen lines first, and remove, or you will likely unscrew the pressure valve holder instead. Not good, you can bend the injection lines pretty easy on this car.

Watch that you don't drop the spring inside, it tends to come out with the pressure valve holder if you tip it. If you drop one, get it clean before putting it back in.

The copper seal sits on top of the pressure valve body, just lift off with a pick and replace. Torque is 20-25 ft/lbs three times without loosening -- this is the trick, as once will usually leak. Over tightening can crack the valve body, so be carefull.

Probably a good idea to replace the o-ring on the pressure valve holder at the same time.

Takes less than a hour if nothing is badly stuck.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!