To remove the bulbs, I first removed the wood panel and then the two foil pieces that covered the bulbs. Then I found a small piece of plastic tube and put a drop of super glue on it, held the tube against the bulb for a minute, and pulled it out. I used another piece of tube (without glue of course) to push the new bulb in.

The seat controls are easily removed. Carefully pry off the buttons and you'll find that the black plastic covering around the seat switch can be pried off. The switch assembly is held in place with two screws.