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Yeah, that's a pain in da ass job if there ever was one. You have to do it through the trunk. The official way is that you can remove the trunk trim (under the lid) or even just loosen the lower half, and if you're real good you can just do it that way, but man it's tough. Alternatively you can remove the trunk trim and you'll see the fasteners that hold that "strip" down that those license lamps are "embedded" into. Once the strip is off you'll see how the lamps will come out, I can't remember now if there are screws you can get to then or what, it's easy after that trim strip is off. It'll also give you a chance to detail that area a bit, it collects a bit of crud between there.
Gilly
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