I located a used pump for $ 225 (about 1/2 of new) so I figured before spending the money, I would take it apart and see if there is was an easy fix.

Pump disassembly is as follows:

1. Remove bottom of pump (mine was blue) by releasing all the tabs around the perimeter with a small screwdriver.

2. You are now looking at the bottom of a printed circuit board. The ends of the board have the plug sockets on them and are loose, but the center of the board is held to the valve by three (3) small hex head bolts. Remove these carefully as they are very close to several surface mounted components and lands.

Note: Static electricity can damage parts of the board so try to only touch the edges.

3. The board does not come up very easily as there are o-rings on the connections between the board and the valve. I pried up lightly on the board in the area where the hex head bolts were and alternated from side to side with a screwdriver. It will pull straight up off of the valve.

Note: My board had a burned out land on the bottom. It was located about an inch from where the motor leads come off the board and was very easy to spot.

4. The wires that connect the board to the motor and the valve are long enough that the board can be swung out of the way. the motor lifts out and has one (1) hose connection and two (2) wires, black and white. I cut the wires to the motor about 2 inches from the board so it could be tested by itself.

5. The actual pump is the dark brown plastic part at the far end of the motor. It is held together by three brass screws. I took the pump apart because I didn't know what caused the high amp demand that burned out the land on the board, and I thought maybe the pump was bad. If you take it apart, be sure to do it over a clean bench as there are four (4) small vanes in the pump. The vanes are not symmetrical and need to be put back in the same way they came out.

6. I gave both the motor and the pump a good WD40 bath, hoping to free up whatever was causing the excesss load. I then hooked it up to a battery and ran it. The pump is actually bi-directional, allowing it to move the locks up and down with only one line. I reversed the polarity several times and put more WD40 both on the motor bearings and into the pump outlet/inlet.

7. With the pump seeming to work fine, I reconnected it to the wires with crimp connectors and reinstalled it in the assembly. The board was then put back in place and bolted down.

Note: I waited until the board was in place to fix the burned land as it needed to be stable.

8. The lands are too small to repair so I soldered a small jumper wire between two (2) of the actual component solder joints on that particular land. The bottom cover then snaps back into place.

Back in the car, the unit now works fine. It provides vacuum or pressure for the locks and pressure for the multi-contour seats just like it should. As to how long it works for, who knows, but at least I know how it works and maybe this information can help someone else repair theirs. GOOD LUCK!