VAvle guides are pressed in. Some have a shoulder, some have an E-washer or snap ring, and some have to be seated to correct depth with a guage. Some just get pushed in til they stop. Engine dependent, so you must check. You will need the press tool as well -- usually a pilot that fits through the guide.

The are removed with a tool by pushing them out from the bottom.

You will probably need to grind the seat to restore the sealing surface. May or may not have to ream the guide for correct size -- MB guides will be exact and won't require reaming, but other manufactures sometimes do. Seat conditioning must be done after the new guides are in place, as they are the reference for the seat (ie the valve must sit correctly to seal).

Lapping the valves in is also required to get a good initial seal.

I'd have a shop do all this. You can install the valves yourself, but have the machine work done, it requires far to many tools to do yourself.

Valves can be ground if not too badly worn, there is a spec for how thin the edge can be. The shop will tell you if you need new ones. Intakes usually can be reused (less wear), exhuasts usually must be replaced.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!