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I don't understand what you mean when you talk about "turning it over" and that "one person can turn it over faster than another."
No offense, but it leads me to believe that you don't fully understand timing with the drip method.
Once you have valve plunger out and the drip tube in place, you need to have the engine slightly counterclockwise of the timing setting. Do NOT turn the engine counterclockwise, this can cause problems with the timing chain.
Once you are at TDC or a little past, pump up some pressure with the hand pump and then ever so slowly rotate the crankshaft bolt CLOCKWISE until it drips. You don't have to worry about whether is two drips per second or a half drop per second. There will be a point where it will drip instead of nothing or a stream. This the point you are looking for and at that point you can look at where the pointer is relative to the damper, that is your timing. If you need to adjust, set the damper at the exact spec such as 22 degrees, then loosen the IP nuts and rotate the IP 'til it drips and lock it down. Hand pump again after locking it down to ensure that it is still set.
From your post it sounds as if you are under the impression that you are supposed to turn past the mark and see where it drips on the way past. That is wrong, this is a static test.
Hope this helps,
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