Cross camber and cross caster (the difference in readings side to side) IS important, and most manufacturers say that is should be no more and 0.5 degree, but my target value is ZERO!

Cross camber and particularly cross caster can cause pull, and any alignment shop should be able to get both within 0.1 of spec with no more than 0.1 difference side to side.

If the wheel is cocked it means the tie rods have to be tweaked - one a hair longer, one a hair shorter to center the wheel and keep the toe setting in spec.

Any qualified alignment guy should understand this. There is WONDERFUL alignment equipment out there, but few techs that are really qualified to operate it who understand the basics of vehicle alignement.

I gave up and started doing my own alignments 20 years ago with an inclinometer and tape measure. I set the front alignment on my 190 to maximum negative camber (about -0.75 deg.) and maximum positive caster (about 10.5 deg.), within the available adjustment and equal on both side. (The rear was okay in my book and I left it alone.)

I later got the dealer to rack it up on their alignment machine. (They owed me a favor.) The tech said he could not have gotten the cross readings any closer than what I achieved.

I believe your car is still in the "adjustment" period, and I believe your settings are far enough out to qualify for warranty adjustment. Frankly, I'm surprised a new car has such sloppy settings! Make sure you get the sheet showing before and after alignment and insist that the settings be within 0.1 degree of spec with no more than 0.1 cross camber and cross camber. If they balk at this, demand factory documentation stating the specified front and rear cross settings.

Also, tell then that you expect the steering wheel to be straight when tracking down a modern well maintained road that does not have much camber. Most modern interstate highways meet this criteria.

The left front outside shoulder tends to suffer greater wear since we go around more RH corners - like freeway on and off ramps. If you can get them to set the front camber to the maximum negative value, which works out to about -0.5 degree, the car will handle better and not chew up the outside shoulders of the front tires as bad. If you are a "sporty" driver and tend to push it on the corners then you definitely want to go to the negative camber spec limit at the front, if not beyond, like I did.



Duke