Quote:
Originally posted by Pete Burton
I assume you mean that you better make sure that you don't overdo things, your overboost switch should be operational, etc. Have you considered using an orifice in the line once you know how much restriction is needed? The reason I say that is because although your needle valve setup looks fine, needle valves can carbon up pretty easy. An orifice would eventually carbon up too, but it could easily be cleaned and restored to near previous condition pretty quickly. Of course, it wouldn't be as fun to adjust!
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Since the flow is FROM the compressor housing (filtered clean air before the EGR) TO the wastegate, there shouldn't be any carboning unless you have a serious air filter system problem. In that case, carboning of the valve would be the LEAST of the worries I'm afraid!
Quote:
Originally posted by Pete Burton
TomJ: Are you running the needle valve inside the car--to adjust from driver's seat?
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No, this just mounts from the compressor to the WG at the turbo. The gauge should be a temp underhood one just to adjust in the driveway till you have max boost at ~10-12psi.
Having a boost gauge would be a good idea along with an EGT gauge, but this just makes a solid change rather than constantly adjusting, so once it's setup and locked, it should be good to go and just ignore, maybe periodically check to make sure it hasn't changed.