I believe the 124 alignment scheme is identical to my 201. The front control arm bushings are both tied to the chassis with eccentrics. The front primarily affects camber and the rear caster, but there is some interaction. Toe is adjusted by normal adjustable tie rods. Any competent alignment shop should be able to accomplish a four wheel alignment on these cars at reasonable cost as it is all done with adjustable eccentrics and tie rods/toe links (at the rear). No shims! Rear caster cam be a major deal, but most equipment probably can't even measure it, so just get the rear camber and toe-in right.

The spring isolators also serve as anti-squeak pads. Though many cars do not have them, eliminating them may cause noise. Also the spring isolators are formed to accept the spring ends, which may not be the case of the isolator seats in the chassis.

If it were me, I would not consider running without the OE spring isolators.

I do all my alignment with an inclinometer and tape measure and achieve very good results. Getting into the details is far beyond the scope of this thread, but if you have a shop manual and a good understanding of suspension geometry (and geometry in general) and how wheel alignment affects various dynamic response modes you can consider doing it yourself. Otherwise just go to a good pro and have it set at factory spec.

Duke