There are hard plastic lines from the lift pump on the side of the injection pump (the thing with six steel lines on it) to the main fuel filter (canister type, up front) and from the fuel filter to the side of the injeciton pump. These are under about 30 psi, pulsating, so will spray fuel everywhere plus rob the IP of fuel if they crack while running.

If one is broken, as noted above, you must replace it complete, you cannot install new clear line. You can, however, replace the plastic with standard fuel line (5/16", I think) if you cut the plastic off the barbs and use some small hose clamps to hold the fuel line on. Certainly cheaper, and possibly the only option on a weekend.

Do not drive it til you fix the fuel leak, it's possible it may catch fire!

The return line from the fuel filter to a steel line on the fender can crack, too, and as the fuel tank is usually under some pressure, fuel will spray, usually forward, soaking everything.

The hoses are a bit complex since there is a fuel heater, too -- there should be a suction line (black fabric) with a small clear filter in it. It runs from the standpipe (steel) to the fuel heater thermostat (a small can bolted to the engine with four hoses on it). Two fabric hoses go up to and back from the fuel heater on the side of the block at the rear of the engine, and one goes to the injection pump.

From the IP, a clear hose goes to the fuel filter, and another one goes to the engine side of the IP. There is a black fabric (or often plain fuel line) hose that goes back to the other steel line.

There are small fabric lines that go from the injectors to the fuel return, plus another small line up there, I think.

You have several vac/pressure lines in that area, too. I suspect the hose section that connects the boost sensor line from the intake manifold to the big squarish can on the IP (the ALDA) is blown, leaving both ends intact but not connected. There are tiny hose clamps on this line, the plastic is white, rubber parts black. The rubber hose can be replaced with standard vacuum line, but it will be large enough to cause trouble with the tiny clamps. Must use the clamps, else the hose blows off. This line also connects to the vac amplifier (blue thing that looks like a horn on the fender) to control shift feel.

If the boost line is loose, you will have very poopy performance.

peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!