You will only need to remove the calipers if the rotors need replacing or the pistons are stiff going back. The latter means caliper rebuild time, they will drag and/or leak of the seal is bad.

If the rotors have a distinct lip on the outer edge, replace them.

The Haynes manual is adequate for this job, although barely.

If you are only replacing the pads (good rotors -- if in doubt, replace the rotors, too, the trouble you will get if they are too thin isn't worth not doing this!), clean the slots they fit in completely. Rust in the "corners' will cause the pads to stick and squeal like crasy, and can cause the brakes to drag.

Coat the back of the pad with antisieze where the piston contact it, and put some on the edges of the backing plate ONLY on the sides where it will contact the caliper slot. NONE on the friction material, please! This will go a long way to prevent squeals.

Check the condition of the dust boots on the piston -- cracks, tears, or signs or excessive stiffness mean a caliper rebuild before the piston gets stuck.

When pressing the pistons back, remove the fill cap on the fluid reservoir, else the won't move -- there is a very small bleed hole in the cap! If they won't move back easily with a small C-clamp or wooden lever, rebuild the caliper, they have cocked in the bore or are dirty, and will sieze shortly.

If the backing plate on the pads has touched the spring over the pads, it's also rebuild time, the rotor was run too thin and the piston seals are shot.

At the age of this car, you should really expect the calipers to need a rebuild (19 years is a long time!). It's not hard -- do a search. Should be covered by the haynes manual anyway.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!