The suspension must be level when you tighten the bolts because the center sleeve doesn't rotate on the bolt, it's held down tight and the rubber acts as a spring. This is also why you cannot replace the rubber only.

If you don't do this, the car will sit a couple inches high and the wheels will be out of place, really looks and rides strange.

I think I remember it was Rusty at BuyMBparts, but I'm not really sure, worth a call. Thrust links are about $35 each at FastLane, torque links $25, camber links similar, so it's not a huge discount. I don't believe the mounts were included, just the 8 links.

Plan on plenty of time, this job can be a bear -- it' rather difficult to get the wheel carrier end of the torque strut bolt in, and it takes a long time to get the locker nuts off -- no access.

Accumulators should only be replaced when the ride gets hard -- it will eventually get so bad that the rear suspension doesn't move, the only spring left is the tires, and it will bounce terribly. Obviously, you don't want to wait THAT long... If it rides harder than is should, replace. Requires removing the trim panel between the rear and third seat (or storage compartment if you don't have the third seat) -- two screws hidden in the carpet mid-panel, two on the edges beside the seat or storage cover. Accumulators are actually inside, but he hydraulic lines nad retaining bolts are outside.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!