Col:

I really truely dislike fixing butcher jobs.....!

If you've replaced the trigger points and the ECU and it runs, at least one was bad. ATF blown all other the place isn't good for wires, though -- won't bother the trigger points much, I don't think, unless it softens the rubbing blocks.

The only special tool needed to check out the ECU is an oscilliscope to see the injector pulses (and this may be avaliable on some ignition analyzers, I don't know!). Everything else can be done with a VOM. Trigger points must open and close (with no resistance closed), temperature sensors must have the correct values (I don't have that info at hand, but can get it), and the manifold air pressure sensor much have the correct reisistances on both coils AND respond to adjustments (otherwise the internal diaphrams have gone).

The ECU is very rugged.

The relays are fuel pump, master relay (operated by the keyswitch to turn the whole thing on and off), cold start valve. Fuel pump is switched by the ECU.

Check the ground for all the injectors, they all individually ground at the same spot, and check the ECU ground wire (brown) -- I've seen the ground wire go bad on one of these, causing all sorts of trouble, usually a no-start condition, but occasional stalls.

The ignition box has three wires to it, one from the points and the others trhough the ignition resistors.

Crane and Pertronix both make good aftermarket ignitions for this car, much easier than the factory, and the Pertronix can be "invisible" (that is, no extra wires, etc).

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!