The relay is just in the NSS circuit to interrupt the start power to the NSS switch.. when the alarm system is activated [ Armed]
It is between the ignition sw and the NSS... and for crank, you need power from ign. sw , through K-38 relay contacts , through NSS sw , to the Terminal I had you hook the test light to under the hood .. so, somewhere in that chain is the problem...All the inputs of the doors/locks and stuff feed the primary side of this relay... But , as SB mentioned .. the actual sw/contacts side of the relay can be by- passed as a test , so.. yes, it can be by -passed to crank/start the car.. you just won't have an alarm system
The schematic actually shows a sub-schematic *notation* with this circuit by-passed on the CDN models.. so , I guess it was just the US versions that got the alarm as standard equipment..[ according to the schematic -- don't call me on that, people]

The previous post terminal #s/colors I mentioned will do just that.. If jumping those 2 terminals does not do the trick, forget the alarm/relay .. that is not the problem.. by jumping those 2 wires , you are doing exactly what the relay is supposed to do...so, if jumper does do the trick, you have a bad contactor in the relay or a feed to the primary side of the relay. .. the feed circuit for the relay is where you have to start tracing interior wires/lock/etc.. and that is what I was referring to as tricky for a DIYer..
Your Indy prob has the schematic for this , but if not ..email me and maybe I can send him one somehow...
One can also tell if the contacts of K-38 are good without going to the actual relay by looking for power at the feed wire from the relay at the NSS connector while the key is in the crank position..... that would be terminal #3 , V/Gn , at the NSS.. a 12v. test lamp here would verify that...
.. Your Indy prob already knows that...