Also, never rely on the temperature gaugues only, shorts and grounding problems cause them to read a higher temperature or inaccurate temperature (happened to me).

On the other hand, your combination of issues does point to the radiator.

However, I'd buy an inexpensive infrared thermometer and shoot it at the water pump and the radiator. Look for cold spots on the radiator (a bit temperature variance), this can help confirm your temp gauge and also help verify the radiator. I bought a RadTech radiator for my 380SL and it was identical to the original one and I think it was made by Behr also (steel, etc)-- cost about $300.