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If your door panel is off, you can access whatever needs repair...unless you have a cutting torch, the inner door frame is not a DIY removal.
The rear window mechanism is FAR simpler than the front. You can watch the traveling motion of your window to see if the cable is kinked or spools smoothly. If so, the mechanism is probably suffering from what fails on 99% of these cars...the plastic sliding jaw mechanism.
That part connects the metal window clamp (on the bottom of the glass) onto the guide track. When it fails, it comes apart partially, allowing too much angular movement. Gravity takes over, and the window isn't properly aligned on the trip upward, causing it to jam just before it reaches the seal point.
The only cure in the past was to replace the whole regulator ($250), and I had to swap both of mine eventually. Fortunately, now MB provides the replacement piece separately, which is just under $10!
FastLane has them (check the tab on the top of the page)...
...btw, the sheet metal around that area is sharp, so be careful...
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
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