Greetings All,

I make this post for all that tread the dreaded drip tube method of injection timing, and will explain it so as to make it easy for the rest of you scratching your heads. Because I first tried the drip tube method without success, I resorted to the baylor method mentioned above, and saw my injection timing to be off by some 13 degrees. I reset the IP to achieve at best a 15 degree before TDC. Most of my black smoke went away and the blue during start up went away as well. I also gain top end performance, but seemed sluggish from a dead stop. I pulled the IP from the engine and reset the start of delivery line up marks while the engine crank was set to 24 degrees. From the looks of it, the original was off about two teeth, which must have made a difference when trying to set the start of delivery.
For the DIY'er to set the start of delivery do the following. Remove the injector lines, from injectors and pump fittings. Turn the engine over by hand, cresent wrench on power steering pump bolt or crank bolt, toward you, or clockwise, watch fuel as it spits from IP connectors pipes. Disconnect the vacuum line off your shut off valve, and depending on your IP, wire your throttle full open. Remove the pipe connector from the no.1 pipe and remove the valve and spring, thread the connector back into the IP and connect your drip tube to the connector end. Rotate engine in clockwise direction using hand method, and after the no. three IP connector spits fuel, look at your dampner as you turn it slowly, stop when you get to 24 degrees on a 300 non turbo at least that is. Loosen the three nuts on the front of the IP and one bolt on the rear, but do not move pump at this point. Using your primer pump stroke it until fuel comes out of the drip tube. If no fuel flow, or it flows freely, adjustment is needed. If it's not flowing at all, you need to slightly move the IP toward the engine, probably only slightly while pumping the primer until fuel starts flowing, and backing off till it stops, and releases a drop about three to four seconds later. This is your start of delivery, so lock down the holding bolts to your pump without moving it further. Recheck to insure you didn't screw up. If you are getting too much flow, and it doesn't stop, then pull the pump slowly away from the engine while pumping the primer, until it just stops and a drop follows three to four seconds afterwards. Lock down the pump at this time. If you get nothing either way you move the pump, or a steady flow in either direction, you will have to do what I did, and remove the IP and rest the timing alignment marks on the pump itself. If you find yourself in this pickle, please email me, and I will go into detail as to what you'll need before attempting this. If you managed to get this all accomplished, and you have your pump timed as the directions above, you'll have to fight a little bit with the injector lines to get them all to fit because you moved the pump from it's original position. It's really not a big deal for us real dedicated mechanics, DIY'ers that is. Any questions please email Bill, no just kidding. Send me an email, I'll walk you through it. Reading the manual leaves too many holes as to how it should all take place. I found myself scratching my head, but managed to figure out the missing words between the lines. Good Luck, I did find a performance gain on low end starting out and top end acceleration after this proper procedure, it also improved overall MPG of fuel burned, so it may help you as well.

Charles

[Edited by can-do on 04-13-2001 at 01:44 AM]