I brought a 300d with exactly the same problem on drivers side some years ago. Your right it was not the nicest repair to do. Struck me at time would have been much easier done with fender off. Left my fender on. Anyways you need welding gear before tackling. I used stick welder with very small 3/32 rods. Was no room to get my mig head in there. Just soaked pin/bushing in penetrating oil first and unfortunatly that was not enough in my case to separate them. Resorted to ox/actylene and had to heat till red to get parts separated. Rewelded bushing into washer and combination to inner fender . Do not remember if it was a standard large washer or I had to fabricate one specially in my lathe or on drill press. Additional metal support of the washer was required because bushing rips or tears out the metal leaving nothing to weld bushing to. It was originally spot welded around its outer flange..You kind of know that pin is going to be badly seized in the bushing as it tears out with the sheet metal before turning even though the turning moment is massive. Too bad the spot welds do not fail instead. Remermber to lubricate the other side well as it would be miserable to repair one side only to have the other tear out at some later date. For anyone else reading this note. Far easier to lubricate the hood pivot hinge points once a year even if they are a little hard to get to and obscure.. (very easy to miss) The resultant effort to repair is way out of proportion in comparison. Preventative maintenance again. Edit: Just had a look at your picture again. The part I am talking about is a pin that comes out of the lower hinge arm at the very back. This pin goes through a bushing perimeter spot welded to inner fender and is way back in there. I straightened my hinge that was also a mess like yours but it should not be a problem to locate a good used one to start from a wreckers and makes the job much easier. Also your failure is on pasenger side. Just got back from garage checking one on passenger side. Great as it is easier to repair than drivers side. After battery is out lots more room. Go for it if you have a mig or a friend that has one as that side is much easier. (lots more room) Proof we are on the same item is that there is a large slide clip keeping the pin in the bushing if I am right. Needless to say only install spring after all repairs are completed and it was pretty easy putting rope on spring hook and pulling spring out to reconnect afterwards. Guess will need a brain transplant as had to look a third time at your picture. You or someone previously have already removed the slide retention clip and one has to go back on to complete repair.. An example of this clip is on drivers hinge..