Im halfway done with replacing the 3 top guides on my 560SL. I will try to get you some pictures. But basically the procedure is as follows

1) Disconnect battery

2) Remove plug wires from spark plugs and place clear of valve covers

3) Disconnect the fuel cooling lines from the AC hose (If you have this)

4) Disconnect the power brake vacume line.

5) Disconnect vacume lines that cross over the right valve cover.

6) Remove both valve covers

7) Rotate engine to TDC #1 cyl (verfy camshaft timing marks are aligned)

8) Remove distributor

9) Remove power stearing pump leaving hoses connected and set pump aside

10) Remove alternator leaving electrical connected and set asside

11) Tiewrap chain to camshaft sprocket and remove left camshaft sproket.

12) Using a MB special tool slide hammer (prefered method), remove 2 pins for each slide as follows:

a) Make a mental not of each pin depth.

b) Remove upper pin first and reinsert into position 3/4 way to support the guide rail when you remove the lower pin.

c) Remove lower pin fully

d) Grab slide firmly with one hand and pull out upper pin with other hand.

e) Carfully remove slide. Do not drop it

13) Reinstall new guides and seat pins into place using a short 6mm socket head cap screw, screwed full into pin and a soft hammer to drive in to the depth you previosly observed. You should be able to feel when it's home. Remove 6mm cap screw.

14) Reverse the assembly proceedure. Use locktight on camgear sproket

Note the special MB tool can be made up with any slide hammer weight and a 6 mm threaded rod and washers. Just be carefull of what you might poke the threaded rod into when your pin drives free.

An alternative meathod is to use a 6mm bolt to draw against a 1/4" drive 1/2" socket or washers large enough to allow the pin to clear. For really tight places use a 1/4" drive 10mm socket. The amount of thread engadement is controlled by stacking washers under the head of the bolt to make up for the length of the bolt. This sometimes becomes difficult because some pins are on a radiused area. This can be addressed by placing a standard open end crows foot adapter under the socket butted up to the radiused area and allowing the socket to stradle the crowsfoot face. The last time I did this I only had a flare crows foot but it still worked. Be patient using this meathod because you have to balance the act of how many threads are engaged into the pin and how many times you plan on changing washers. For the first time use a minimum amount of washers so more threades are engaded and you only pull the pin out a slight bit befor the bolt threads bottom in the pin. After you crack the pin you can get a little more aggresive by adding more washers and starting with less thread engadement.

For the left cylinder head the inside upper pin is to close to any radius to use any combination of washers, crowsfoot or sockets. For this pin you can use the camshaft washer to make a bridge between the valve cover gasket mating web and the boss for the power steering pump mount. since the boss is lower than the VC web you will have to shim the washer with another washer or shim stock on the boss. I enclosed a picture of this.

This sounds complex so I will try to get you pictures in the next few days. If you cant wait that long just e-mail me with any questions.

Good Luck
John Roncallo

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