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Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
John,
Ethan suggested "clay". I also highly recommend you clay the car, this step will remove the wax PLUS anything left over will be removed by your polishing step. Running just your hand over your cars paint can be misleading. Take a plastic lunch (sandwhich) baggie and put your hand inside of it and then rub your hand across your paint. By doing this you will feel exactly whats on your paint.
Clay that area then do the baggie test again. It should now feel like glass even with the baggie on.
Anthony
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Thanks for the suggestions. This weekend I did my 93 Taurus as a practice vehical. It was probably the best idea I had. I learned alot. I just did a regulare wash on the Mercedes no paint cleaner, polish or wax yet.
I then did the 93 Taurus. The Taurus paint is badly chiped has a few minor dings and scrathes and never had any hand applied wax for it's entire life span. It did occasionaly get wax put on by automatic drive threw car washes, but not in at least two years. I washed the car then used Mguiares Deep Crystal cleaner followed by Deep Crystal polish, followed by Gold class clear past wax. There is a night and day difference as can be seen by the attached photos.
I also did the plastic baggie test on both the Taurus after the wax job and the MB after the washing. Both cars felt smooth as glass without the bag. The Taurus had a slight grit feel to it with the bag. The MB had an even more grit feel with the bag despite the fact that the MB looks alot better. Neither car had a tendancy to stick to the bag. I suppose the MB will beat the Taurus after the application of wax. I will know shortly.
This was a good learning experience and well woth the effort. Some of the things I learned just cant be read about on the web, like working with the products near rubber gaskets and seams. And when you do a job like this, things you never thought of before like door jambs suddenly become relevent especially when you open the door of a freshly waxed car and see a totaly disgusting jamb. Plus working with the products, it became necessary to open the doors and overlap into the dirty jam areas, which contaminated the polishing pads.
For now I'm just going to wax the MB until I get more familiare with the products. Im also doing to try the full job on my 92 F-150. The paint is much wors than the Taurus. In fact for this vehical I will have to paint the hood befor I do anything. On this truck I will try clay.
I am still having trouble with the chamios. It is the first time I used one for dying and it seamd to leave water spots all over the car. I had to buff these out with a micro fiber towel. I really dont understand why Mguiares says to soak the chamios first. It seems to defeat the purpose of drying. In any case I ended up using it more or less to push the water off the vehical and finish up with a microfiber towel buffing out the water spots.
I would also like to thank everyone else who replied.
Thank You
John Roncallo