in my case, it runs smooth but with hard start at cold and intermittent rough idle particularly in park. I also had a high idle but just resolved it by replacing the ICV. I tried cleaning the ICV but did not work. ICV tested OK as a unit but cannot pull the idle down to where it should be. It stayed at about 1000 in Park/neutral but would drop to 600 in gear. The idle is now 700 in park and 600 in gear.

My O2 sensor tested out of spec, so I have ordered a new one. It should arrive tomorrow. I will then do a re-test after I have installed the O2 sensor.
In my research and consultation with other folks in the Forums, I realized the imprortance in understanding how the process works, in order to tacke a DIY such as this one. The fuel injection system is quite complex but now feel more comfortable after a lot of readings. The testing involves measuring EHA resistance, voltage, and load current. Another test is the on/off ratio. There is a concept called open loop(cold/warm engine) and closed loop(oper temp). Looks like you have done some logical steps in testing/replacing the temp sensor, OVP, etc. The throttle position switch is also one of the variables often discussed.

The clue about the coil is a good one. vacuum leaks is also one that is often discussed. I have looked and looked, but could not find any,