I'm not sure how to complete the test you indicated. I'm sorry, I just need a better description of the location of the indicated parts:
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Originally Posted by kramlavud
Arthur,
I tried P and N positions several times yesterday and today, also moving the shift lever side to side in N as you suggest, with no improvement.
OK you do not move the shifter side to side , you move it foward and rearward of it's normal gate position...and while holding the key in start position without releasing the key during this test..but I do not think that is the problem.
I assume the click I hear is the starter solenoid. The click comes from the engine compartment. Maybe I did not test with the lamp correctly. I connected the red alligator clip to the engine lifting ring, pushed the probe through the purple/white insulation, turned the key to start, and the light did not illuminate.
OK . I want to make sure you are the right connector/plug.. it is a 3 prong , all in a row connector held to the wall with 2 screws .the V/WT is the center connector...... maybe your light is out or you had not pierced the wire fully... test your light by leaving the red on the ring and go to the bat + to test lights integrity..
Here is another prof positive test that will test the same point , but in a different way..
Get a jumper wire and hook one end to the bat + ...
Now, unplug the connector at booster and I want you to look at the 3 MALE connectors at the part of the connector that is screwed to the wall..[not the part you unplugged w/ female connectors]
Take your bat + wire and touch the CENTER MALE connector .. the starter should crank the engine ..if not , you have a problem at the starter or wire going from this connector to the starter.. if the starter turns the engine over [ cranks] w/test, the starter/sol are verified as GOOD. This means you are not getting power at the wall 3 prong connector and the problem is in the NSS circuit..
The reason for testing at this point/connector is that it is a place in the circuit that is easily accessed and it is the dividing point [ electrically] between the NSS circuit and the starter/sol circuit
I think you follow me....
I got under the car and believe the locking ring on the NSS connection is OK. It is in the 'down' position. If I push it 'up' I can wiggle the connection, but in the down position, the connection is tight.
regards,
Mark
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where are these connectors?
Heres a picture that I have off my ALLDATA CD's: attached
edit: would the X42/18 or the X49/1 (pictured) be the correct connector to try this trick suggested by Arthur Dalton:
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton
The terminals at the switch that should have continuity when the shifter is in N or P are #3 and#4 ..these are v/wt and v/grn wires . This is where an ohm-meter can be used to check for a connection/points contact. One may also just jumper these two and see if starter turns engine over w/key..that would indicate bad sw.
This cable also runs into the car, under the steering wheel/dash and can be jumpered there for testing.[ 4 prong plug. same #s]
The other 2 terminals are for back-up lamp..terminals # 1/2..
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