Originally Posted by Gilly

Remove valve cover
remove sheet steel oil sprayer bar (2 screws, plus one of the rocker arm bridge bolts)
remove plugs
remove rocker bridge #1
pressurize #1 hole
(MB has a good tool to remove valve springs BTW)
compress valve springs and remove springs (has regular type of valve keeper, a split collar type)
remove valve stem seals, DON'T scratch the stems!
Install seals, these should be put in a container of fresh oil prior to starting the job. seal with DARK colored spring goes on the INTAKE side, seal with BRIGHT colored spring goes on EXHAUST side. Be sure to use the plastic shield that is supplied with the kit, they go on the valve stem and prevent the seal from being damaged when sliding over the valve retainer grooves. Shove them down onto the guide, you should feel a slight "snap" when they are all the way down. Reinstall everything, making sure the valve spring keepers are on before removing pressure form the #1 hole. Move on and do the same thing with the rest of the holes, pressurizing the next hole only after removing the rocker bridge. Reinstall the bridge after you are done with the valve stem seals to keep correct tension on the cam. DON'T remove ALL the bridges at one time, only ONE at a time, you can crack the cam otherwise. The engine may rotate reverse when you pressurize the cylinders, so after you have done all the pressurizing I recommend rotating the engine by hand about 1/2 a crank rotation clockwise. The torque spec on the rocker bridges is 21 nm. On the oil spraying bar, be sure to clean (deoil) the 2 retaining screws and use loctite thread locker when reinstalling. Real light torque, I think just 5nm. When remving the rocker bridges be real careful to NOT lose the small cup shaped spacers on top of the valve stem (under the rocker arms).

Gilly