Jim, On my car, the top of the box is held in place by a metal bar that spans the width of the heater box and has two holes on either end that go over the two 8 mm studs that protrude from the firewall. Onto that bar fastens the two top pods. The bar has three additional holes through which are screwed 5mm screws into the top flange of the box. I think my box sagged a bit and I could not get one of the 5 mm holes to line up. Oh, well.

Ace Hardware had some .75 inch ID vinyl that made very nice condensate drains, see-through at that. I got enough of the car reassembled today to start it and move it; a very good sign. There are still some interior trim pieces to reinstall but it is all down hill. The going price here in Naples for recharging an air conditioner is $40 per pound for 134A, plus labor. That seems high for the refrigerant so I thought I would recharge it myself. Robinair and others make venturi-powered vacuum pumps, about $16 at Harbor freight, and I thought I’d buy one and use it to suck out the system. I don’t have AC gauges so I thought I’d buy 134A refrigerant and the PAG46 oil in can sizes that total up to the systems capacity. Is it essential that I use gauges to first see if the system will hold vacuum? Do 134A cans have sufficient pressure to trip the low refrigerant switch so the compressor clutch will engage to enable me to continue filling? Also should I assume that all oil is out of the system and reinstall the total specified or does some oil remain in the system even after a good vacuuming? Thanks, Frank