A bunch of you are talking about pin type plugs. These are in parallel and can be resistance checked from the shell to the stud. You can check them even easier by pulling the plug at the relay and checking each pin to ground. It's much easier.

The original thread, however, is on a car with LOOP TYPE plugs. These are a short between them because they are in series and isolated from ground. They will rarely if ever burn out, so a continuity measurement is almost not needed, but for good troubleshooting practice you should do it. Since they are in series, you can check them all at once for continuity by measuring across the whole string at once. Don't worry about the value, just make sure you have a circuit.

The BIG problem with Loop plugs is that they can get enough crud packed in that they leak current to ground. Remove the plugs and scrape out the crud with a hardwood stick or use the fancy reamer that you can get from Fastlane. If this crud is tight enough it bleeds the power off to ground rather than dividing it among the plugs equally.

Also there is a bar fuse in a holder on the firewall behind the engine. Check that with your ohmmeter. Don't rely on a visual inspection to determine if that fuse is good. It often cracks at the edge and looks good but is not.

Good luck,