With water in the oil it could very well be that the head is corroded through rather than the head gasket leaking so MAKE SURE that the shop pressure tests the head. It's still the same job except the shop will have to weld up the head BTDT. The previous owner of my car had used green antifreeze and not changed it very often.

As an earlier poster said, the likelihood of needing anything below the head gasket is almost nil. I fully expect that you will still see crosshatch on the cylinder when you get the head off. If for some reason it DOES not attention in the bottom the manual says you can raise the engine and get the pan off but I doubt that any one here has ever had to do it.

There are two methods for pulling the head; leave the manifold on the head and pull the whole shootin' match or disconnect the manifold from the head and leave it in place. With the manifold off the head is as light as a feather and easy to handle. Additionally you don't have to take off near as many vacuum and electrical connections which are old and brittle by this time. You have to get underneath on the drivers side with a long extension for a few of the intake bolts but I found them quite accessible. I wouldn't even think of leaving the manifold on the head having done it.

You will also have to wrestle a little with the exhaust manifolds. A long extension from underneath will get the pipes loose and the nuts will come off the studs on the head pretty easy since they are a bronze material. You have to loosen some pipe brackets underneath and wrestle to get the head over the studs, but it is the thing to do. I have seen someone here post that they pulled the studs and used bolts. In my experience using steel bolts in an aluminum head is a huge mistake due to the dissimilar metals. I would always stay with the studs and just wrestle it in place.

Since there is water in the oil. When you go back together with it, get some cheap oil and some cheap filters. When I had mine apart I had to go to Europe for three weeks in the middle of the job and there was light surface rust but it hasn't hurt anything. The oil looked like chocolate milk. When I first started it I had it filled with the cheap oil and a cheap filter. I ran it about 10 minutes and drained that oil and changed the filter. I then drove it down the road about two miles and back. I drained that oil and changed that filter and it was starting to clear up. I changed oil and filter again and drove it to the office and back and then put my regular oil and a good filter on and started back on regular oil change interval.

Make sure you loosen the tensioner before removing the chain from the cam gear and before putting it back together push the ratcheting plunger all the way through and start it through again so that you have slack when putting the chain back in place.

Also, it is VERY important to be careful in placing the rocker arm stands all in place and tighten them down evenly start on one end and tighten all the bolts one turn all the way down and then start back the other way. If you try to tighten one stand all at once you can strip bolt holes in the head and cause all sorts of trouble.

When you do the head replace the guides as well as the seals. Don't even think about not replacing the guides.

Best of luck and post if you need help as you go,