NOTE: I've updated this first post to include the discussions and experience/feedback that was given by kind people below as well as my own experience. The job was not bad (although definitely not a breeze), most of my time was taken by being unsure of what to do and how to do it since I didn't have a manual .... therefore if you're going to try this repair yourself (recomended) follow the steps immediately below :


I've perused this topic via various thread and have come across a bit of conflicting information. This is what I have found for anyone tempted to do this job themselfes. I don't think it is that difficult at all. I took my time over about a week of evenings (and a case of beer )


- no need to remove radiator at all, period.

- no need to remove fan, clutch etc as some suggest, period.

- in fact, no need to actually 'remove' anything except pulleys and air cleaner

- remove the airfilter housing (2 screws and losen the vertical one on the side and remove the complete housing to give more working room.

- the fan shroud needs to be losened by removing the two clips only, leave the shroud in place, removing the clips allow you to move the shroud over a tad so that ......

- ... you can losen the 19mm tensioner bolt just below the long adjusting nut

- losen the long tensioner bolt to slacken the belt

- remove ps pump and w pump pulleys (get a strap wrench)

- remove the 19 mm bolt

- unbolt the hex bolt fastening the dipstick to engine so that the dipstick can be moved a little to get better access to the 2 rear 13mm bolts hoding the waterpump (again, not critical but easy to do and helps to get access)

- losen the heater pipe allen underneath the distributor and pull on the pipe to seperate from pump (replace washer)

- undo all the bolts holding the ps pump and the tension/idler assembly

- now you can start undoing the w pump (you will need extensions, universal and some tape to hold the universal straight, I did everything using 3/8"). Start by removing the front 6mm Allen bolt with an allen tool and a bit of pipe to get more leverage.

- the lower rear 13mm bolt comes out easy with a 3/8 drive and extension

- the upper rear 13mm bolt I found a lot trickier because of not very much room, but finally found that a combination of the smaller 1/4" drive to the bolt and then a 3/8" extension did the trick perfectly.

- finally the lower front which is not bad to get at once you move the tensioner assembly out of the way. (note, I did 'not' remove any bolts from the engine itself (there is one into an oil passage to do with a casing that holds the tensioner), just enabled myself to move the round tensioner assembly an inch or so as well the ps pump is just pushed out of the way)

- you are done. I did not use any grease with the o-ring as per dealer recomendation... it stays on well enough and wiggling tells you pretty quickly if it is sitting properly.

- replace the 2" heater hose (even if it looks good, you won't get at it again)

- reassemble everything in more or less reverse order. I did not worry about torquing in some kind of systematic way when mounting the w pump .... I mean, after all, it's heavy duty cast. I doubt it would make a difference like it does,eg, on a wheel. the little pointer on the tensioner came off - no big deal, it simply fits on losely and ratches (ie move it along with your finger) into position.

- put the belt back on, tightened and filled with water ... tiny, tiny leak on the thermostat seal because I tried to reuse the old washer.... put in new washer - perfect. I tried to save new washer because I plan to exchange the plastic housing for a metal one.

- cheers, guenter

ps after you r&r the w pump ... should other items in this vicinity ever need replacement in future ..... it will be a breeze.