Quote:
Originally Posted by dbs600
I'm going to look more into "jumping" the regulator and powering the blower directly. If it works... my order for the regulator is being placed ASAP. Thanks for your help!
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The blower positive terminal is always Hot, the switching is done on the ground side of the circuit..[ referred to as a switched ground]
So, by hooking a wire to the blu wire coming out of the blower and grounding it , you have completed the blower circuit without the regulator... if the blower runs, you have a reg circuit problem.. If blower does not , check for power at red terminal of blower and if yes, blower is bad..if no power at red , check feed/fuse circuit. If blower checks out yes with jumper, then you have to check that the reg has trigger voltage from the control panel . This will be 2-8 V. at yellow wire [ depending on CP settings]. If there is V at this reg trigger , you have a bad regulator. If no trigger , you have a problem at the CP
A note:
If the reg is found to be bad , I would check the blower Amp draw wired direct to assure it is within spec [ 25A.] If it is higher, that will burn out the new regulator.. Out of spec draw is usually caused by bad/binding shaft bearings or worn brushes.
It is also possible to have a bad reg caused by a plugged air filter system, as the heat-sinz dissapation requires air flow from the system to keep it in check.. so check both of these conditions before installing a new reg. or you can burn up a new one in no time
PS
I always use a jumper with an in-line 25A fuse in the jumper just in case the blower is shorted/bound , for protection of cars harness/feed.