The lower control arms have some adjustment avalible to them with the stock ecentric bolts, but they have there limits.
A slight drop in ride hight may be within the adjustable range but of course you won't know what amount is to much until you get it all together and go into get the allingment done.

Getting the adjustable arms are a good way to go anyway incase you decide to play with the spring pads or springs in the future. You wont have to do any suspention removel.

I have a set of arms with the heim joints that I bought to install when all my other parts arrive, but as soon as they arrived a guy came out with a much better idea for street cars that requires no maintenence and use the stock bushings. So now I have a set of those on the way and if anyone wants a set of new heim style for 100.00 plus shipping (USA and Pay Pal only) they are yours but I think these are the way to go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33582&item=7986053351&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Another thing to note is: When you have it all done tell the allingment guy even though the adjustable arms are on there not to use them to correct the negative camber until the lower control arm adjustment is maxed out then do the upper adjustment to get the spec. needed.

The reson for that is when you have the neg. camber and lowered body/fenders the more correction you make by moving the bottom of the tire inwards and the top of the tire outwards as little as possible, the better your tire to fender clearences will remain.

I hope that makes sence.

G/L