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Originally Posted by Strife
It can be done, even by an old fart (47) with eyesight not what it was. A temp-controlled iron with small tips, flux pens, good (but not expensive) tweezers, and $5.00 of cheap jewelers' loupes! Because it was getting impossible to hack without being able to to do surface mount, I designed and built a microprocessor controlled nixie-tube watch as my first try at it. In some ways, it's actually easier than through-hole (except when you get down to super-fine-pitch or ball-grid array chips, then the equipment gets astronomically expensive).
On the concern about RC constants in the cruise circuit, I'd find it hard to beleive that MB would design a circuit where 10% would be critical, particularly on a cap. These things aren't really even that close (for long!) in reality, and it is possible to design analog circuitry where the effects of conponent tolerance are minimal. Just the extreme temp variations in a car would cause problems in an overly-sensitive circuit. If there are actually any timing-critical caps, they are probably polystyrene or specially made disk caps. Using an electrolytic in a timing circuit is generally not a good idea (but IANAEE).
For example, I'll bet that many electrolytic caps in my (working, for now) cruise control module are probably +0/-40% or more right now, given their age.
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Just because i live breathe and eat this stuff, I try to stay with DIP devices for my hobby stuff, but you are right, its becoming increasingly harder.
I really don't see first of all if you would need an RC timing circuit in a cruise control amp. After all what does the cruise control amp do? The only thing you need an RC timing circuit for, is either to create a pulse of some sort, or to create an osscilator. Secondly, I really cant see using an Electrolytic cap, considering poly or film caps, are readily available, and cheap, in any useable value for an RC timing circuit with a time constant suitable for one of the above uses.
My bet is that they are probably used as blocking caps, to remove DC from a mixed signal, pre and post " amp". Problem being if they break down, they no longer pass the AC either. Thats why it doesn't really matter if they are -40% , as long as they still pass the AC, the device still works.
So its probably one of two issues, one, a cold solder joint. Or two, a failed electrolytic, no longer passing AC.
I've actually seen both cases.
Take care,
George
__________________
George Androulakis
Former Mb's:
1990 500sl R129 - 76k Original Miles - New project - Follow the saga
http://90r129.blogspot.com/
1990 190E 2.6 148k mi (sold)
1989 420 SEL 246k mi (sold)
1995 C220 175k mi (sold)
1992 190e 2.6 74k original miles (sold)
2000 c230 Kompressor 122k miles (RIP)
1996 C220 149k mi (sold)
2000 C230 Kompressor Sport 127k (sold)
Current Cars:
2009 Mercedes c300 4matic
2006 Mercedes s430
2005 Jaguar XJR
2003 Cadillac Escalade