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Originally Posted by Karsten
I just thought it was relatively simple to change the crush sleeve, so I wanted to do it.
I have seen plenty of warnings against dissembling the differential, so I would prefer not to do this if possible. I guess taking the pinion out would mess with the whole alignment of the differential?
Should I just tighten the grooved nut to 20 kg/m and check if the torque requiered to turn the pinion is within specs?
The book states grain 180 for the oil return thread?
Karsten
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Sorry .. typo on grit .. 180 is correct
Also, nice job on the tool rig .. I like the epox trick... I should have mentioned that some guys use a thick 1" , 1/2 drive socket and cut the pins on it .. that allows for breaker bar useage and you can then use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter so you can use an in/lb torque wrench on it for spec load. [ more on that below]
Yours looks so good, if you put a part# and paint it up, it would look like you bought it..nice to see there are a few of us tool-makers still here !!
The only time you would want to change the crush is if it were tightened too much. Once that happens , it can not be stretched back , so you have to use a new one .
If you indexed the nut before you took it off , you return it to that mark and all is well.
The problem with that is you are only back to where it was and that does not mean it was correct to start with .[ bearing wear , or worst, someone in there before you]
So , here is the correct way if you have torque tools:
You tighten nut to about 100ft/lbs. [ starting point] Now , you take wheels off ground [ axle tubes level/brake off]and you turn the flange by the nut with a in/lb torque wrench. You see how much force [ in inch/lbs] it takes to turn the pinion.
The spec you want is 24/26 in/lb BEFORE the nut starts to turn. This is the bearing load. An easy explanation is the same as if you were tightening a front wheel bearing. As you tighten the wheel bearing , the tire is harder to spin.. same deal with the pinion. So , you tighten the nut a little at a time [ I use about 1/8"]until it takes 24/26 "/lbs to turn the pinion. Then you know you have correct load on the bearings. There is no way that you can just tighten the nut to a certain ft/lbs and know what the preload on the bearings is , so you have to go back each time you tighten and recheck the load . The torque reguired to get there is usually anywhere between 100 and 150 ft/lbs on the nut .. but you won't know that til you test the turning force with "/lbs torque test.
The confusion guys have is "Turning force " and Tightening torque" are two different measures. and the required Final Tighten Torque of the Nut is totally dependent on the Turning force spec of 24/26 in/lbs.
I am sure you get this and I only write it up for followers of the post.
One can now see that if the nut is tightened too much, [resulting in premature bearing wear/noise],the crush sleeve shortens as the bearing load gets too high and can not be reversed by simply loosening the nut .. it is KAPUT ...you have ruined it , you Dumbkoff !!!!
This is a tricky job and not recommended for weekend worriors.. except you and me ..
End of story...