PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post

bstreep · #8 06-01-2001, 07:39 PM

When you say the "bushings" are worn, what are we talking about? If you are talking about the rubber seals, let me know, I did all of mine last summer (and one I tore weekend before last)... As for where to put jackstands, I did the same as Jim, I put 2 on the frame behind the wheel and in front of the jackport. Make SURE your frame isn't rusted and it will support it. I also put blocks under the oilpan, just to be sure...

I don't have a coil spring compressor (I bought one for the job I just did, and it didn't fit). WHAT FOLLOWS YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I MAKE NO CLAIMS ABOUT IT BEING SAFE IN ANY FORM OR FASHION: I made one out of a heavy piece of threaded rod and some BIG washers and nuts, and some bar stock I bought at Home Depot. I cut 2 pieces of the 3/8 inch bar stock about 5 inches long, drilled a hole in it for the rod. Cut the piece of rod long enough to go from the top of the shock to the bottom. Remove the shock absorber and substitute the rod for it. Put 2 nuts on each end along with plenty of washers. Keep a close eye on the rod ends and make SURE the nuts don't turn off. I use a floor jack to compress the spring a little at a time, and then tighten the nuts as it compresses. When you get the rubber bumper hitting the top (you might want to look at whether any of these need to be replaced...), you can then remove the bottom pivot pin by removing the 4 bolts. You can then slowly relax the spring by jacking and unscrewing the nuts. Be very careful here... Once the spring is relaxed, you can remove it. Now you have access to everything and it shouldn't be under pressure. If you remove the bushings from the pivot pins, be SURE and keep the front and back separate - they ARE different! I also marked them with a file and counted the turns to come off - it becomes useful when assembling (I learned this the hard way). Examine the pivot pins and the stampings on the control arms. You likely have to replace the seal, at about $1.30 each. Check your kingpin out, hopefully it's in good shape. The kit for it is about $55 for a reprodution ($220 for a real one). Take the time to clean all the gunk out of everything. I cleaned mine up, primed it all, and then painted it. When putting it back together there are 2 main problem areas: 1) getting the pivot bushings back on evenly, and 2) getting the pivot pin back on the subframe. For the first problem, make sure you mark them and count the turns to get them off. On the second one, first compress the spring as above until the pivot pin is close to where it belongs. I then take a big phillips head screwdrive and wrap some masking tape around the tip. I then insert it into the hole in the pin, and then into the threaded hole in subframe and strong arm it into place to put one of the bolts in. It may take 2 screwdrivers, but it works. The tape protects the threads. The manual says that Mercedes makes a threaded pin for this job. That sure would help! It took me a couple of weeks of evenings to do both sides. Most of it was cleaning and painting rather than doing the actual work. As a note again - be careful with the springs. Don't depend upon 1 single thing to protect you. Use both the spring compressor and a jack or piece of wood or something to be safe. Watch your fingers too - the control arms tend to "move" in fits and starts.

Also might be a good idea to get some disposable rubber gloves. I LOVE the way they keep your hands clean (so does Mamma).

Good luck.