Brakes on these cars are pretty simple! I still have my Haynes manual from my 300D I use on my SD for torque values and basics when I'm confused on items that I haven't taken apart. It's not a bad idea to pick one up so you know what's going on.

I'd advise against those MB pads as they dust an awful lot! But many swear by them so it's up to you. I've had good luck with Wagner semi metallics on a nearly three ton truck, and with a lifetime warranty... can't beat that. Could need rotors, bearings, master cylinder, lines, etc. Most of that stuff isn't spendy but will take better part of a day to install.

Mind all the old rubber... motor mounts, ball joints, objects of that nature. Inspect the vac lines too, many will be very rotted out and need replacment. Good PM.

Change all the fluids (oil is at your decision, it's highly debated... I run Castrol diesel oil made by BP with a filter from McParts. just make sure it's diesel rated for compression ignition motors and change it often). ATF is important so drain the converter also when you drain the pan and install a new filter. Rear axle is a challange.

Hit the door locks with graphite powder... it's ~$2. NOT WD40.

Use some silicone spray on the door strikers and joints to help the move easier too.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]