6 hours.

Make sure of the following:

loosen the center bolt on the tensioner FIRST or you will be buying a new tensioner rod...

If you have more than 75,000 miles since the last tensioner replacement, buy one now, else you will be sitting with an unusable car until you get one. When loosening the tensioner, watch the pointer. If it moves back to near the start of the "ramp" cast in the tensioner, you can re-use it. If it doesn't move, or only goes part way back, the tensioner is shot (and yours is very likely dead).

You will have to pull the tensioner shock up with the belt to get it back on, it tends to run out to full extension and makes the belt look too short.

Not a bad job, just messy and long.

You will need a swivel to get the wp off the head and back on. This would be very easy except for the PS pump in the way....

Make sure you fill the engine with coolant and purge the air correctly before driving, else you will fry the engine (I nearly did) -- pour coolant into the reservior until full, the squash the upper rad hose flat with one hand, then crimp the overflow line from the rad to the tank shut with the other. Release the upper rad hose, coolant will be sucked up into the engine. Repeat, filling the tank when it goes dry, until no more coolant gets sucked in. You will still be quite a bit short after a couple heat/cool cycles, but it won't overheat.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!