WVO pumps and fuel lines? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

hoborobot69 · #16 10-09-2008, 08:52 PM

You can find fuel line made by goodyear at sears. The blue lined hose is quite durable, and available in different sizes. You can indeed match this hose to the hose under your tank too, with some tailoring.

a2t · #17 10-09-2008, 09:07 PM

Im using frybrid kit - HIH. Aluminun line inside 5/8 heater hose, this provides best heat transfer possible. Its either 1/4 or 3/8 ID metal line inside the hose. Polymerization is not an issue since there isnt any air inthe lines to react with the VO (but the whole tank is aluminum so I guess it could still be an issue - has been fine for 30k)

why would you be running VO pump when VO was cold? you should be waiting till system is at 160F coolant before switching to VO, right?

Be really careful how the hose is run to tank. These old benzes dont have much ground clearance, my lines have takin a beating over the last 30k miles. I think there is way to run lines inside the car, or at the very least protect them on the underside with some aluminum extrusion.

Frybrid sells the VO fuel pumps too, Ive heard they are quite reliable, although more expensive than the cheap pumps.

pizzachef · #18 10-09-2008, 10:20 PM

Ditto on the frybrid...here's how you can make a HIH setup similar to theirs...picture is from here http://www.frybrid.com/hih.htm

Where the aluminum tubing protrudes from the T, slip a 3/8" fuel line over the tubing and clamp it on. And yes, you need to drill out the compression fitting...I forget what bit I used, but all you need is enough to pass the aluminum tubing through.

Tips:
Use PLASTIC ferrules in the compression fittings, you don't destroy the tubing when you tighten them down, so if you need to undo it in the future, the tubing won't be marred..you'll need new ferrules though.

Tighten the compression fittings LAST. After everything else is tight.

Its tough to get the compression fitting over the end of the tubing if its already bent, so put in on straight, then bent the end of the tubing if you need to.

For hose clamps, go to NAPA and ask for 'fuel injector clamps" or "injector line clamps" something like that. They look like the band type of clamps that Mercedes uses on their fuel lines (with a screw that tightens a metal band) the worm style clamps with the slotted bands tear into the fuel lines...and the clamps need to be pretty friggin tight to seal the fuel line on the aluminum tubing, but mine haven't leaked.

As for a pump, I don't use a lift pump other than the stock pump on the side of the IP. If you wait for the VO to get hot before you switch over, it'll be thin enough to pump with no problems.

Its getting late and I've been up a while, if I think of more later, I'll add it on. Good luck.

mobetta · #19 10-09-2008, 10:43 PM

First- what are your issues? are you designing a system, or running one??

Heres mine.

3/8 od aluminum versatube HIH w/ 5/8 heater hose to tank, 1/2" HH for coolant return.

Greasecar valve for supply, pollack for looping veg/return to veg tank. No return to diesel.

I ditched the electric pump last winter, it is not needed and was just a PITA with cold grease in it at 20 below.

I make my HIH terminations with 2 brass fittings soldered together (I use silver solder or acid core solder, regular plumbing solder melts @ pretty low temps.) the T's are 3/4 PEX(fits 5/8 HH perfectly) and 1/2" NPTF x 3/8 comp fitting.

you need to use 3/8 drill w/ 3/8 compression fittings w/ 3/8 tubing ( or all 1/2", etc)

I use a frybrid type filter(VW oil cooler)

I order fuel injection clamps by the dozen when I order parts for my benz.

Injection line heaters made by me.

All my rubber lines are sae30 r7 or r9 rated. I am still using the original cigar hose. I do have some clear-blue motorcycle type fuel line that is great and cheep.

joeblack · #20 10-09-2008, 11:00 PM

For the HIH I use 3/8" SS tube and 5/16" SS for the return inside 5/8 coolant hose Mc Master . For the fuel line Tygothane designed for Bio Diesel (McMaster)
2 Pumps 5-9 psi plunger pumps. see fattywagon
Bypass old pump
2 check valves before IP.
One 3 way valve after IP.

Modified the pressure valve at the IP housing from 15-18psi to 5 psi. (different spring)

Inside WVO tank is a container ( thickwall aluminum budweiser BOTTLE with holes in the bottom. The warm return fuel mixes with the WVO.
but reduces heta buildup in the tank ( see I believe fattywagon website)

I use GMC 3500 diesel filter in the back next to the WVO tank. It has a couple of turns 5/8 soft coolant line around ( get more surface contact) .
I experimented with the WVo filter in the front or back and I measured that the WVO at the IP gets hoy much quicker with the filter in the trunk.

I use electronic induction heating around the injection lines and that is the ticket. a constant 200-220 F at the end of the injector line.

latitude500 · #21 10-10-2008, 02:25 AM

It sounds like you’re on the right path to building your kit. Remember do it right the first time and you want have to do it right the second time. You should also think about upgrading your HOH fuel line to aluminum and move away from the cheap poly tube. The metal is a pain to get into the tube (HOH) but once you have it in, it heats the WVO a lot better. You can get it for cheap at http://www.mcmaster.com and your going to need about 25 feet of it.

You’re also going to need at flat plate heat exchanger to heat up your WVO. I have a 30 plat heat exchanger, but I got it because I was short on funds and that is what I could find. For a MB, anything around 24 plats is going to work fine for you. But you want to stay away from electrical heat. It seems to be a lot of work and energy with not a lot of pay back. Also look into dayco fuel lines for your system. They have a rubber outer with a viton sleeve in the middle. So you get the performance of viton with out the high cost. If your going to be in cold climates your going to want to insulate everything you can. This is something I do for all my clients. You can go to your local hardware store and purchase some pipe insulation and insulation wrap for the FPHE.

What tank are you thinking about using? What is it made out of?

You can get a greasecar kit for your MB for $850, you might want to look into it.

Good luck,

Have you found any places to give you free grease?

mobetta · #22 10-10-2008, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by latitude500

Have you found any places to give you free grease?

That is the million dollar question- or the $4/gal one, anyhow.
you should really find a good source BEFORE a conversion.

If you go the greasecar route, I would replace the PEX HIH material w/ alum, and add a fphe. anything 12 plate or larger is fine, IMHO.

latitude500 · #23 10-10-2008, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

That is the million dollar question- or the $4/gal one, anyhow.
you should really find a good source BEFORE a conversion.

If you go the greasecar route, I would replace the PEX HIH material w/ alum, and add a fphe. anything 12 plate or larger is fine, IMHO.

That is solid advice. Most people end up spending just as much on the kit they created, when all they had to do is purchase a greasecar kit, and find a 16 or 24 FPHE.

Biotour · #24 04-08-2009, 01:07 PM

whats wrong with the pex material??

Bajaman · #25 04-08-2009, 01:24 PM

Nothing, probably just lower heat transfer is my guess.

a2t · #26 04-08-2009, 11:42 PM

If I could do it all again..id go HOH not HIH...coolant lines tend to break, and with HIH the PIA factor goes wayyy up! This for all but the coldest climates...

Stay away from anything plastic (esp valves and tees). Plastic breaks.

Seriously consider skid plate along bottom of vehicle to protect lines. Not much room under a benz, not much ground clearance either. Sagging suspension with 160 lbs of WVO in trunk wont help...